Complete Guide to Edinburgh Grassmarket (Pubs, Map + More)
One of my favorite areas to explore in all of Edinburgh is the Grassmarket area. For such a small(ish) space, it’s packed full of great restaurants, fun pubs, boutique shops, and great hotels.
It’s a part of Scotland that I would absolutely recommend you not miss. It’s easy to get to – just steps off the Royal Mile, really- and is full of things to see and do.
Despite many visits to Edinburgh’s Grassmarket, it’s still a place I find myself meandering back to.
Here’s my complete guide (full of tips, recommendations, and blunt honesty-lol) to the Grassmarket area of Edinburgh.
- Grassmarket Market
- The Last Drop
- Bertie’s Proper Fish & Chips
Where is Edinburgh Grassmarket?
Grassmarket is an area of Edinburgh just off the Royal Mile. I always feel like I’m heading down a back alleyway to get to it, which honestly feels like a fun side quest- lol.
The area of Grassmarket refers to a square of cobbled streets that is located below Edinburgh Castle. In order to get there, you’d mostly likely turn off the Royal Mile onto Victoria Street.
At the bottom of Victoria Street, you’ll find Grassmarket.
Edinburgh’s Grassmarket Neighborhood History
The history of the Grassmarket is a fascinating (and gruesome) one.
The area got its name because the square was used as a livestock marketplace back in the 14th century. Then, the area was grassy and you could often see cattle grazing. Thus, Grassmarket was born.
Public Executions
Although it began as a market space during the Middle Ages, Grassmarket eventually became the local spot for public hangings.
Picture this: A gallows used to stand at the end of the square, and massive crowds would funnel in to watch. Grassmarket was the spot for creepy public…entertainment?
Before long, a full spectacle was created. Locals flocked to the area in order watch thieves, religious dissenters, and even those accused of witchcraft be hung.
Supposedly, Grassmarket today is haunted by the souls of those who were lost to the gallows.
Tip: You can still see brass markers noting where the gallows once stood. They’re marked on the map!
Maggie Dickson (Half Hangit Maggie)
Among the most popular figures to be executed at the Grassmarket is Maggie Dickson- more affectionately known as “Half-Hangit Maggie.”
As legend has it, Margaret Dickson (Maggie) got pregnant out of wedlock and attempted to conceal the baby- a huge no no at that time.
After being hung for her “crime,” Maggie’s body was taken for burial. On the way to the gravesite, she allegedly woke up inside her coffin!
As law would have it, double executions weren’t a thing. Maggie had served her punishment (I guess?) and was freed. She went on to live many years, ultimately becoming an Edinburgh legend.
Today, the Maggie Dickson’s pub pays homage to her memory.
Map of Edinburgh’s Grassmarket Area
Grassmarket Pubs in Edinburgh
There is a shockingly large concentration of pubs in Grassmarket. I almost feel like I’m just passing pub after pub when I’m walking through.
Nevertheless, many of these spots are great places to grab a pint of ale, enjoy some delicious Scottish food, and often catch live music as well.
The Last Drop
If I had to pick one pub in Grassmarket to recommend, it’d be The Last Drop. I love, love, love this place.
They, of course, serve up some incredible food (my haggis shepherd’s pie was delicious), but it also has a unique atmosphere inside.
The Last Drop is, of course, an homage to the hangings that occurred in the area. Along the walls, you’ll find artifacts and history that keep this time period alive. I found it all very interesting!
The White Hart Inn
The White Hart Inn is said to be one of the oldest pubs in all of Edinburgh, and it is run by one of my favorite Scottish breweries, Belhaven.
Many people stop here because of its association with writers like Wordsworth and Burns, but it’s also a great spot for steak & ale pie and a pint (trust me!).
Maggie Dickson’s Pub
As I said before, this Grassmarket Pub is named after the famed Maggie Dickson, aka Half-Hangit Maggie.
This is a great spot to have a meal while you catch a spots game or live music that is on each and every night.
If you’re really up for some fun, try a whisky flight to taste some of the 92 whiskeys that are hand-picked and delicious!
Fiddler’s Arms
If you’re looking for a true and warm Scottish pub, then Fiddler’s Arms is where you want to be. The cozy, wooden interior lined with wallpaper almost feels like you’re stepping back into historic Edinburgh.
Biddy Mulligans
Biddy Mulligans is the premier Irish pub in Grassmarket. So, if you sometimes have a hankering for a Guinness (because who doesn’t), this is where you’ll find it!
I love Biddy Mulligans for live music at night, and honestly, you can order literally anything off of their menu and it’s fantastic.
The Black Bull
A brilliant spot for a bite if you want views of Edinburgh Castle…I mean, it’s like literally almost just below it?
The Black Bull is definitely more of sports bar vibe, but nonetheless, it has a full menu and outdoor seating that is lovely.
Other pubs nearby, but not technically in Grassmarket:
Finnegan’s Wake and The Bow Bar
Where to Eat in Grassmarket (Restaurants + More)
If you aren’t up for a pub meal, and you want something a little bit different, here’s what I’d recommend as far as what to eat in the Grassmarket area:
Grassmarket Market
If you take anything away from this post, take away the fact that you shouldn’t miss the Grassmarket Market.
On Saturday mornings, the square area comes alive with vendors of all kinds. It’s a beautiful spot to spend the morning checking out local artisans and grabbing a bite to eat.
My advice? Try the paella or fresh arepas and then shop around for some souvenirs!
Petit Paris
Petit Paris is a brilliant spot for a bit more elevated sit down experience in Grassmarket. The Parisien charm abounds here, with quiches, roast chicken, fondue, and plenty of other options available!
The Beehive Inn
Another Grassmarket pub run by Belhaven, the Beehive Inn has the Scottish-pub-ambiance down pat and has a great selection of options for food.
Try more unique dishes like the potted devon crab, pea & mint soup, or even duck hash. Or, if you’re like me, get the fish and chips or steak and ale pie everywhere because…you know, why wouldn’t you?
Made in Italy
This was the perfect spot to spend a rainy afternoon in Edinburgh. I sat down for a quick lunch, and it was delicious!
The flatbread and wine that we had were incredible, but the best part was the ambiance inside. I loved sitting by the window and watching the world go by.
Mary’s Milk Bar
Mary’s Milk Bar is a hotspot for ice cream and hot chocolate in Grassmarket.
Although it’s pretty popular on social media, it wasn’t crowded when I popped in.
My personal opinion is that the hot chocolate is a little too rich for me, but I absolutely loved the ice cream!
Kilted Donut
Be prepared for long lines at Kilted Donut. This place has blown up on Tiktok, and with good reason.
Here you’ll find a variety of unique donut flavors to munch on, but you HAVE to try the Cranachan. It is an homage to a traditional Scottish dessert and….it’s just worth every penny and minute you’ll spend waiting in line
Castlegate Cafe
If you’re like me and need to eat a full Scottish breakfast during your time in Scotland, then, by all means, please stop at the Castlegate Cafe.
Breakfast, coffee, and just about the coolest interior with character I’ve seen in a long time makes this a restaurant I’d stop at often!
Other restaurants nearby, but not technically in Grassmarket: La Barantine, Oink! Victoria Street, Bertie’s Proper Fish and Chips
Shops in the Grassmarket Neighborhood
Honestly, I wouldn’t spend too much time shopping in Grassmarket. There are a few stores worth your time, but, really, most of the places I’d recommend are in a separate area of the city (more on that below).
Armstrong’s Vintage
Armstrong’s Vintage is like a wonderland for thrift shoppers. I had an absolute BALL here! There are racks and racks of all kinds of vintage items: clothes, hats, shoes, accessories….literally everything you can think of.
This is one of those places you can very easily get lost in for hours. I love it!
Great Scot
Great Scot is a decently large souvenir shop in Grassmarket that may be worth your time if you really need a traditional souvenir-like item.
I would venture a guess that many of the items here are not *actually* made in Scotland, but it does have a large selection.
This is the only place I was able to find the singing bagpipe bear for my sons, and, you know…HAD to have that- lol.
Shopping on Victoria Street and Candlemaker Row
If you were a friend of mine, I’d tell you to walk a few minutes from Grassmarket and do your shopping on Victoria Street or Candlemaker Row.
Both of these streets have more options as far as unique stores and items go. I find that the boutiques along these streets are really more locally-run and have things you won’t find elsewhere.
For example, I love John Kay’s Bookstore, the Islander Handbag shop, and, my absolutely favorite store, Lackdhu, which has an incredible selection of artsy local items and some stunning prints.
You can read my full guide to Victoria Street in Edinburgh here!
What to Do in Grassmarket
Listen…there’s not much to DO in Grassmarket. (Sorry?). It’s more of a wander through, pop in and out of shops and restaurants type area.
However, there are a few things worth doing very near Grassmarket…so much so that some people lump them in with the area despite them not technically being in the square.
Visit the Grassmarket Market
This is actually the only thing in my list that is in Grassmarket. If you are in Edinburgh on a Saturday, make sure you stop at the Grassmarket Market!
It’s a great spot for artisans and food stalls and the like.
See Greyfriar’s Kirkyard
You absolutely want to take some time to explore Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. This is one of the oldest churches in the area, and it has a very large and spooky cemetery (kirkyard).
It is an interesting, historic place to take a dander through, and it is, allegedly, one of the most haunted cemeteries in the world!
Take a Harry Potter Tour
Many places in Edinburgh are said to have inspired the writings of J.K. Rowling when she created Harry Potter- tombs in Greyfriar’s Kirkyard included!
A Harry potter tour in Edinburgh is a fantastic way to see some of these places…and the tours are just downright fun! Wands, spellcasting, and all!
Find Greyfriar’s Bobby
Along Candlemaker Row, you can find the statue of Greyfriar’s Bobby. This dog was a faithful pet to John Gray, a night’s watchman of the city who was buried in Greyfriar’s Kirkyard.
Legend has it that the dog stayed by his grave for 14 years until he passed, and then he was buried near his owner. Not only is there a grave bearing his name in the kirkyard, but you can also find a statue of Greyfriar’s Bobby.
You’ll notice that his nose is completely colorless, thanks to the many people who have rubbed it over the years, because, as the story goes, doing so will give you good luck!
Relax at a Cat Cafe
Maison de Moggy is a cat cafe near the area that has gained notoriety over the past few years as a great place to enjoy a rainy afternoon.
Sit down, relax, and enjoy a cuppa as you play with one of the 7 cats at this unique cafe.
Make sure to make reservations ahead of time!
Getting to Grassmarket Area
Getting to Grasssmarket is incredibly easy! And it’s right in the Old Town section of Edinburgh.
On foot
By far the easiest way to get to Grassmarket is to walk.
Take a turn off of the Royal Mile and walk down Victoria Street (Candlemaker Row), and, voila! You have arrived.
I’ve included a photo below 🙂
By Bus
If you’re headed in by bus, hop off at the Grassmarket station, and you’ll be right in the heart of it!
Where to Stay in Grassmarket
Staying at least a few days in Edinburgh? The Grassmarket area is a fantastic place to stay in Old Town, Edinburgh. It is very close to the Royal Mile and within walking distance of almost all of the city’s tourist attractions and historic areas.
Here are the properties I’d recommend:
Luxury: Wilde Aparthotels, Edinburgh Grassmarket
Wilde Aparthotels are a brilliant option for a luxury stay with a little more room. Choose from studio, 1 bedroom, and 2 bedroom apartments, some with epic views of Edinburgh Castle.
The amenities at this aparthotel are top-notch, with beautifully updated, modern rooms and a spacious lobby and bar that evokes elegance and grandeur with low lighting and wood tones.
Mid-range: Apex City of Edinburgh Hotel
The Apex City of Edinburgh hotel is a fabulous option for a mid-range stay in Grassmarket. From basic, comfortable rooms to the stunning Castle View Suite, you can’t go wrong with this property.
Quite literally the entire city is at your doorstep when you leave, and the warm welcome from staff makes this property a top one in my book.
Budget: Kick Ass Grassmarket
Kick Ass is one of the coolest hostels I have ever seen. It’s hip and unique and fun and has just an awesome vibe to it.
They have normal pods just like your typical hostel, but the real benefit is in the community. They do a great job of setting up places and events for travelers to engage and have fun.
Tip: For a more in-depth look at where to stay in Edinburgh, read my post on the best places to stay in Edinburgh.
Wrapping Up: Grassmarket in Edinburgh
Regardless of what brought you to Scotland, you have to make a stop in Grassmarket. It’s the perfect area of Edinburgh for a stroll, some pints in the pub, and even a history lesson.
I find myself wandering around the area often, and I hope you love it as much as I do! If you’ve been before and have a favorite spot, let me know—I’m always looking for an excuse to go back.
